Garment and like article of manufacture



Feb. 23 1926.

H. C. MOULTON GARMENT AND LIKE ARTICLE oF MANUFACTURE Filed June 9, 1922 Yigg.

lnvenfcnrz` 26 '29 Hurley QMouHon bygea/MMQM Patented eb. 23, 1926..

iJNlTED-*STAT'ES i f '51,514,405 yPAJlizNif orales. l

MASSACHUSETTS', AssIGNoR, BY M EsNEAssIGN- MENTS, T IiEWIS INVISIBLE STITCH MACHINE C0., A CORPORATION 0F MAINE. i

GARMENT Aun LKIKE ARTIcLE oF MANUFACTUBE.

. Application mea June s, 1922. serial No. 567,o43.

To all/whom t 'may concern l Be it known that I, HARLEY C. MQULTON, a citizen of the. United States, and resident of Medford, county of Middlesex, State of Massachusetts, have invented an Improvenent .in Garments and like Articles of Manufacture, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, isla speciicatiomlike characters on the l0, drawing representing like parts.

This invention relates to improvements in machine-made'articles comprisingl a body presenting two or more layers of sheet material formed by folding the material so as to place portions ofthe same face of two of said layers in juxtapositionI and uniting the ame by a series of blind stitches located at a distance fromthe line of fold.

orespecifically an object of the invenion is to provide a plain edge garment comprising a plurality of layers connected by an infolded edge' seam with a blind stitch elastic seam connecting said layers at a distance from the infolded edge. In the manufacture of garmentsysuch as, coats the body of the coat is provided with a facing which extends back from the edge of the coat and is either connected tothe body y of theC coatA or to a lining at some distance from the edge of the coat. In the completed coat the lower portion of this 'facing lies' upon the inside of the coat and'extends av sufficient distance back to prevent the lining `from being displayed when the coat is worn. In the lapel of the coat, which` is turned fback, the facing is displayed upon the outside' of the garment. In usual constructions the facing is of the same material as the outside fabric of the coatY and isl connected to the outside fabric by an infolded edge seam'. yIn some coats edo coats, l111 dress coats and overcoats, the facing is made: of a different material from that which forms the outside or body ferent appearance from the body ofthe coat. In usua y,garment constructions a line of through'and through stitching extendsim mediately adjacent the edge of the coat and serves more firmlyl to connect. the outside and facing of the coat together at theedge and thereby to prevent rolling `of the edge seam. In plain'edge coats this line of stitching is omitted, butl in order to prevent the undesirable rolling of the edge lseam of the such as certain types of Tux-- of the coat so thatthe facing presents adif? coat it has been necessary to stitch the facing to the outside of the coat, or preferably to the stiffening member of the coat, by a line of stitching located more or less in proximity lto the infoldedv edge seam. This line of o0 stitching has heretofore been inadeby hand and greatly increases the cost of production of plain edge coats. Furthermore, this line of hand stitching has heretofore comprised a single threadalternately tacked to the facing and the outside fabricor to the `stii'ening member of the coat.

The present invention contemplates the production of a coat in whichthe facing is secured to the outside fabric or the stiilening member by a machine-made, elastic, lock stitch or chainstitch seam of blind stitching, the elasticity of the .seam being such that it will permit the coat to'be pressed properly without wrinkling or checking, and yet hold the facing permanently in place and prevent Arolling of the infolded edgeseam.

The' invention more broadly includes the stitching together of the substantially conat a distance from the edge ofthe fold so that by spreading the loop of the fold andpressing it down a box plait may be pro-N duced. i

Various other machine-made articles or 85 products are included in thes'cope of the present invention as will be readily understood by those skilled in the art.

The invention is disclosed herein as-em-. bodied in a usual ,form of vcoat both in respect tothe means for` securing .the juxtaposed faces offthe body and facing of the coat together and alsoas embodied in the boxiplait of a coat of the N orfolk type.

#In the'drawings:

Figi 1 is an elevation of one side ofthe front' and arm of a vcoat showing the usual seamof through and through stitching eX- ftending'along the edge of the coat; 7 ig. 2 is a similar view. o fa plain edge 100 coat; Fig. 3ds a back view of a Norfolk type of coat having box p'laits extending from the shoulder to the waist;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of an edge section of the facing and outside fabric of the coat secured together and to a-tape by a line of through and through stitching Jwhich forms an initial vstep in the assembly of the coat; 1

S v l ai.' I i g Fig. 1s a perspect1ve view showing a succeeding step 1n the manufacture of a coat in which the united and taped edges of the facing and 'outside o-f the coat are shown partially in infolded position anda stidening member attached to the tape by an elastic seam;

Fig. 6 is a. perspective View showing the manner in whlch a plain edge coat is constructed in accordance with the present -invention in which the facing is stitched to the stiifening layer at a distance from the edge l vided with an inner facing 2 which is conofthe infolded seam;

Fig. 7 is a vertical sectional view showing the invention as applied to a single sheet of material. in the manner similar to that illustrad in Fig. 6, stiifening layer and infolded seam being omitted;

Fig. 8 is a transverse sectional view of the construction illustrated in Fig. 7 showing the loop spread and pressed down to form a box plait.

In usual garment constructions as embodied, for example, in the coat illustrated in Fig. 1, the outside 1 of the coat is pronected to the edge of the coat by an infolded seam. Aline of through and through stitching 3 extendsA along and closely adjacent to the'edge of the coatthrough the infolded edge to prevent the info lded edge seam from rolling. The lapel 4 of the coat is formed by folding back the upper edge portion of the garment so that the facing 2 `is displayed. 'Ihe line of stitchin 3, however,

is displayed along-the edge o the lapell as well as the`edgeI of the body of the 'coa.t., In certain coats and other garments now 1n vo e it has been found desirable to omit t e line of through and through stitching which extends along the ed e of the coat so that a garment is produce in which no seam is displayed either upon the edge of the body of the coat or the lapel. Such a garment is illustrated in Fig. 2. In the formation of the plain edge garment, however, as` before stated, it is necessary to stitch the facing to the outside or body of the coat or toy the stifening layer of a. stifened coat front so as to prevent .the infolded edge from rolling. This has hereto- I fore been accomplished by manually tacking -the facing to the outside,

or to the stiifening member of a stifened garment, by -a single thread which is alternately caught in the adjacent portions of the facing and the outside or the stitl'ening member.

The presentv invention comprises 4a plain edgecoat in which the facing is stitched to theroutside or to the stiffening member by a machine-made,A elastic, preferably lockstitch seam. Such a construction has, so far as I am aware, never heretofore been accomplished.

The present invention more broadly contemplates a product or article of manufacture of sheet material in which the portions of a body, which may comprise a single sheet or a plurality of superimposed sheets, is folded to produce a loopand portions of 7u one substantially continuous face of the body emerge from the juxtaposed 7 5 of some One ofthe iirst steps in the final assembling of a coat or other garment having an infolded edge is illustrated in Fig. 4 in which the facing 5 is superimposed upon the outside fabric 6'A which forms the body of the garment and are 'secured together and to a tape 7 extending along the edge by a line of through and through stitching 8.

The next step inthe formation of the garment consists in folding the facing ,e around the juxtaposedl edges 9-and 10 as illustrat'ed in Fig. 5. It'will be noted that when this is done the tape 7 is folded back upon itself and extends at a distance beyond the edges 9 and 10of the infolded seam.

Where the garment is provided with a stil'- 100 such as a layer of canvas, this 11 desirably is secured to. edge of the tape 7 by an as a felling 4or an overening layer, stifening layer the projecting elastic seam such edge seam.

In the construction illustrated in Fig. 5 a lock stitch seam is shown which comprises a series of alternating loops of needle thread 12 and 13 which respectively pass throu h 4 the tap'e and enter'l upper or,inner surface of the stiening layer 11 and are connected together by a concatenating thread 14 which passes through the successive loops.

and emerge from t e Thus it will .be obvious that the tape is f secured to the stiffening layer 11 by a blind stitch seam which does not pass through to the displayed face of the outer layer 6. Where a garment is formed without a stiffening layer the tape may to the outside layer-by a line of blind stitching which does not pass through the displayed face of said outside layer.

Inasmuch as the garment may he constructed either with or without a stii'en'ing layer, and also since the folded portion of the garment may comprise a single or a plurality of layers of material, the single or superimposed layers are defined herein as the .body of the material.Y The body, 1

be similarly sewed les y formation 2U the garment and the face portion 16 of theI facing constitute, when the facingl is extended before folding, a substantially continuous outer face. Likewise the inner face portion 17 ofthe stilfening layer, when a stilfen:

ing layer is employed, or the inner face portion 18 of the outside 6, when a stilfening layer is not employed, is substantially continuous with the face portion 19 of the facing 'and constitute the upper face ofthe body as above defined, irregularity due to the of the infolded seam being disregarded.n When,

as illustrated in Fig. 6` the face portion, 19

secured together by 'loops 21 which Venter and of the facing is place-d injuxtaposition to the same face portion 17 of a .layer forming a portion'of'th'e body of the garment, and in the present invention these face portions are an elastic lock stitch seam of blind stitches in which the loops alternately penetratethe adjacent surfaces of i ihe facing andstifening layer or outer layer .as the case may be without-passing through the opposite surface of either layer..

The particular form of blind stitch seam, which is illustrated in Fig. 6, comprises a main or needle thread 20,'having a series of emergeL from the upper face of the stifening memberl 11 and tain the juxtaposed face an alternating series of loops 22 which entery and emerge from the same continuous face of the facing layer, the loops 21 and 22 beingin staggered positionl in the respective 22 are connected pressed into proper position without wrinkling, but serves to reportion of the stilfening member and facing sufficiently-to prevent rolling of the inturned edge which' would'occur in the absence of meansv for securing the facing to the stiti'ening layer or to the outsidel layer. 1

In Fig. 6 the free edge of the -facing is shown in fulllines as rolled upwardly in or- -der to display theline of stitching and in dotted lines is shown in the position in v which it lies in the assembled garment. Y 'The usual lining 24 is secured to the inner edge portion of the facing the usual manner as illustrated in dotted lines Fig. 7 illustrates the invention as to a single sheet of material folded sent two layers, the same face of applied to pretlie juxtaposed portionsof theV layer being secured totherefore, the materialV is folded .ing the juxtaposed portions vstantially continuous nected together by a taped l gether by a `line of blindstitcliing"coinprisu ing loops which enterand emerge from theJ through the oppo- In this construematerial 25 is bent to form juxtaposed portions of the blind stitches 28 i line of stitches comprising the alternating loops 21 and 22 illustrated in Fig. 3 wliicli respectively enter and emerge-from the juxtaposed portions of the same face of the material.

The loopthus formed may, insteadof providing a plain edge, bespread and pressed to forma box plait. The edges 29 and 30 extend equal distances-from the line of the Vseam 28. In Fig. '3 a box plait of this character is shown as embodied in the back of a coat. ,The front of the coat preferably is provided with a plain edge asl illustrated in Fig. 2. N "j The invention maybe readily adapted, to other forms of garments and to other articles of manufacture as will be apparent to those skilled in theart. Consequently, it will be updlrstood that Athe particular embodiments o t trative and not restrictive of the following claims. f

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire to secure by` Letters Patent, is:

1. A machine-sewed article comprising a plurality of -lay'ers of sheet materiall connected by an infolded ing the juxtaposed face portions of two of .said layers united by an elastic lock stitch seam of blind stitches which do not pass through the outerl face. of either layer and which are located at a distancefrom the infolded edge and remote from `the edges of the scope of said' layers.

2. A plain edge garment having a body comprising a plurality of layers including an Bouter layer and a thereto by an infolded edge seam and havofthe face of said facing and a portion of face vof another layer connected by an elastic lock Stitch blind stitches which do not pass throu h the outer face of either layer andv whi' are located at. a distanceffrom said` infolded edge and remote from the edges yof saidA layers. i

3. A plain edge garment ,having abody comprising an outer layer and a facing infolded edge seam', nected presenting with said facing continuous face and having a layer of sti'ening an elastic lock stitch seam of blind stitches connecting the e invention disclosed herein are illusf the same sub-- ioo edge seam and haviio facing connected seam ofv material conto said tape by, an elastic seam and a substantially isol i means concatenating said alternatin blind stitch seam comprising a series of al- 1ernating loops of thread which respectively t enter into andemerge from the juxtaposed 4face portions of the respective layers at a distance from the line of fold and remote Jfrom the edges of said layers and extend in a ldirection of the line of the seam and loops extending in directions oblique to e line of the seam. A

5. A rnachine-sewedv article having a body -comprising outer layers of sheetmaterial connected by an infolded edge seam, a sheet of stii'ening material connected to the infolded edge and an elastic blind stitch seam, of said outer layers and said stiffening sheet at a distance from the infolded edge and remote from the edges of said outer layer and said stiii'ening sheet, comprising a thread having alternating loops which respectively enter into and emerge from therespectivc juxtaposed face portions of said stiiening material and one of said outer layers and which extend in the direction of the oline of fnected to said tape by an elastic connecting the juxtaposed face of one' the seam and a thread concatenating said loops theY sections of which between the loops extend in directions oblique to the direction rf the line of the seam.. j

6. A plain edge garment, haying a body1 comprising an outer layer and affacing connected together by a taped infolded edge seam, a layer of stii'ening material .con-

lock-stitch seam comprising a series of alternatin loops which respectively enter into an v emerge from the respective juxtaposed faces of the stiening material and the tape and are connected by a concatenating *y thread the portions of which between the loops overlie the edg of the tape andv an elastic lock-stitch seam connecting said stif-v 'fening layer and -facing together at a distanceremote from the infolded edge seamv -and also remote :trom the edges of said stil- Jc'ening layer comprising a series of alter@ nating loops of thread which respectivelyA fenter into and emerge from the juxtaposedV faces of said `facing and stiiening Alayers respectively and extend in the direction of the line of seam 'and a concatenating thread connecting said alternate loops the sections of lwhich intermediate of the loops extend 'in directions loblique to the line of the seam.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this s ecilication.` IARLEY C. MOULTON. 

